Osore-San (恐山): One of Japan’s Most Sacred Sites

Nestled in the center of Shimokita Peninsula, the northern most part of Honshu Island, is the eerie yet solemn Osore-san (or Mount Osore). Additionally known as “Fear Mountain” and believed to be one of the gates to the hell, or the underworld, in Japanese mythology, Osore-san is considered one of Japan’s three most sacred places.

Discovered over a thousand years ago by a Buddhist priest, Osore-san is home to Bodai-ji, a Buddhist temple. It is part of the Osorezan Mountain range and is less than 900m in height and considered an active volcano. Its last eruption occurred over 10,000 years ago, yet the pungent smell of sulfur fills the air as volcanic gases seep from vents and bubbles in small muddy pools. A small caldera lake, Lake Usori, high in its acidic content and its white sand and dead water, lays at the center of Osore-san, the water yellow from the sulfur content. 

The area is sometimes referred to the gate or entrance to the underworld because the grey and rocky grounds resemble Buddhist hell and the white sandy beach on Lake Usori resemble paradise. There are hundreds of small piles of stones representing the souls of dead and unborn children along with many statues of Jizo, a god or deity who protects the dead as they try to find their way into the afterlife. Although gloomy, there are many effigies for children and infants and pops of color with little windmills scattered throughout the site. A brook runs through the rocks and sand emptying out into the lake and it’s been likened to the Sanzu River, where in Japanese Buddhist traditions, souls need to cross in order to pass into the afterlife.

A word of caution, however, that the lake itself has a high sulfur content and should be avoided.

Visiting the Osoresan and the Bodai-ji is relatively easy, especially if you have a rental vehicle. Even if you’re unfamiliar with Japanese kanji, signs pointing to Osore-san are in English and you’ll know once you’ve reached your destination due to the strong and pungent sulfur smell. Because public transportation isn’t as common in Northern Tohoku the way it is in Tokyo, you can’t just hop on a bus or a train to reach the area, however, tour buses are available from the beginning of May to the end of October. There is even a hot spring resort for those visiting. The temple is closed during the winter and early spring months because of the heavy snowfall which accumulates on the back roads leading to the site.

What’s unique about Bodai-ji are the mediums, also known as ‘Itako’, who claim to talk to the dead and carry on their messages. Traditionally, the Itako were blind, but as years passed, not only have numbers dwindled down, but Itako were less likely to be blind. A twice-yearly festival, the Itako Taisai, is held in  July and October (, where these mediums perform seances, or Kuchiyose, for those who visit during these times.

What is your favorite spiritual place that you’ve visited? Share in the comments!